- 2-12x7.5 main fabric
- 2-9 x 7.5 lining
- 1- 2x3 tab
- 2-12x7.5 Interfacing
- 2-9 x 7.5 Interfacing
- 1- 9 in zipper
- CD to trace the curve
Adhere interfacing to the back of the main fabric and the lining pieces following manufacturer's directions.
This is the interfacing I used for these clutches, but my favorite is Pellon SF101. It's a little more expensive, but I love that stuff!
For the tab: fold the fabric in half, widths together and then the ends toward the crease so that the ends are folded inside. Then top stitch close to the edge on both long sides for a finished look. Fold the widths together and sew together with an 1/8" seam.
Next cut the curves in your pouch. With the fronts of your fabrics facing each other, take a CD or DVD and trace the edges on both the main fabric and the lining. Cut the curves. (Side note: Frixion pens are sweet! The ink disappears with heat so once you trace you can just iron over and it will go away, and not keep reappearing like some "disappearing" pens will do.)
Fold the main fabric in half right sides together, and measure 1.5" over and 1.5" down and draw a line. This will be your pleat.
{This step determines the width of the pattern. So if you had a 7" zipper and wanted to make one to fit that you could change your dimensions accordingly. Instead of a 12" width for the pouch you could do a 9" width and make your pleat span over 2" (1" when folded.) To change measurements: Take your zipper width, for the pouch we are making it is 9" + (pleat) 3" (1.5 * 2) = 12 inches. You can make the height however big or small you want it. If you want less of a "square" decrease the length.}
Sew directly on top of that line you drew with the fabric still folded.
Bring the center of the fold directly to the stitching, and press down the middle of the whole piece.
Sew the top of the pleat to keep it in place. Also add the tab on the side about 1.5-2 inches down.
Then sew at the bottom of the piece to keep the base of the pleat in place.
I played around with several ways to do the zipper. The one I liked best was sewing the whole length across the top. Make sure the zipper is on the underside when sewing to the main fabric. "Right sides together."
Picture shows starting and ending the stitch a half inch in. I wound up sewing the whole length.
Sandwich the zipper between the main fabric and the lining. Then flip back over and sew along the exact same line you sewed to attach the zipper to the main. This will attach the lining without one set of stitches showing. It also keeps you from sewing over the zipper.
I like to put the pins in vertically. I used to put them in horizontally, but then you are tied to which side of the fabric you can sew on.
Attach main fabric and lining to opposite side of zipper. Then press and top stitch to keep the main fabric and lining out of the path of the zipper.
Now you are ready to sew it all together. Make sure to unzip the zipper a few inches before you pin so that you can turn it after you are done sewing. As you pin around the zipper, line up the main fabrics so the they are touching. The first couple I just pinned that area haphazardly, but I like the way this looks the best. Slow down as you go over the zipper area and stay away from the metal parts of the zipper.
I started about 1.5" away from the zipper on the lining side. Back stitch and sew around the whole clutch with a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving a 3" (or so) gap to turn.
Clip the curves. This allows it to lay better when you turn it. Also snip off the ends of the zipper so that you don't have extra bulk there.
Turn your clutch right side out through the opening. Press. and then either whip stitch or sew with your machine along the opening to close.
Tuck the lining inside the clutch and you are done!
Now you can go make a whole bunch of them!
Love these, but don't really like to sew?
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